Fashion

Michael Bierut
I Love the 80s
Miami Vice: the quintessential postmodern design artifact, in all its glory and all its disgrace.


Hannah Carlson
Fashion and Function at MoMA: Bernard Rudofsky’s “24 Pockets”
Not since the architect and social critic Bernard Rudofsky curated “Are Clothes Modern?” in 1944 has the MoMA addressed the contribution of apparel to the design arts.


Rick Poynor
Exposure: Tilda Swinton by Tim Walker
The performance of a picture



Debbie Millman
Isaac Mizrahi
To launch the 10th season of Design Matters, Debbie Millman talks to Isaac Mizrahi about why he loves fashion and why he does so many things outside of fashion.


Sandra Nuut
Sandra Nuut on Fashion
Sandra Nuut is investigating spaces for contemporary fashion curation inside and beyond the museum, and is analyzing the collision between culture and commerce.


John Thackara
Keep Your Stuff Alive
What would fashion be like if it was more than a an act of consumption with no meaning beyond the point of sale? What kind of system would improve the quality of our fashion experience without increasing the quantity we consume?


John Foster
Shoe Designs Before 1900
Having never really taken the time to look at ancient shoes (I have only three pair of shoes myself — black, brown and a pair running shoes), I was very impressed with the creativity and design of shoes from centuries ago.



John Thackara
Shoe City vs Sole Rebels
Two radically opposed models of development are being born in Ethiopia at the same time. One is small, local, socially fair, and ecologically respectful. The other takes the globalisation of fashion to a new and more destructive level.



John Thackara
A Whole New Cloth: Politics and the Fashion System
In fashion, despite more than 400 eco labels, an incremental ‘do less harm’ approach has addressed the symptoms, but not the principal cause, of our difficulties: an economy based on perpetual growth in a finite world.



Alexandra Lange
L.A. Loves Deborah Sussman
A Kickstarter for an upcming exhibition on the wotk of Deborah Sussman in Los Angeles.


Francesca Granata
“Women’s Work”: An Interview with Judith Thurman
Francsca Granata interviews Judith Thurman about fashion criticism and her own foray into it for The New Yorker.


Alexandra Lange
Bad Taste True Confessions: Erté
True confessions about my own bad taste. I loved Erté. Did you?


Alexandra Lange
Reintroducing the Tilletts
If you are interested in textile design, mid-century style, or creative partnerships, I would urge you to go visit “The World of D.D. and Leslie Tillett” at the Museum of the City of New York.


John Foster
Accidental Mysteries
Motorcycle club cuts (or vests) and their assorted, colorful club colors (or patches) represent a unique form of American folk art embodying the freedom and nonconformity of bikers.


Rob Walker
On Dapper Dan
A look at the spectacular logo-remix aesthetic of rap-culture style pioneer Dapper Dan.


John Foster
Accidental Mysteries
Accidental Mysteries is an online curiosity shop of extraordinary things, mined from the depths of the online world and brought to you each week by John Foster, a writer, designer and longtime collector of self-taught art and vernacular photography.


Alexandra Lange
Dress Your Family in Formica and Faux Bois
The materials of architecture and interiors in the fashions of Schiaparelli and Prada.


Alexandra Lange
Frank Lloyd Wright + Katniss Everdeen
On photographing architecture as sculpture and telling stories via architecture.


John Foster
Accidental Mysteries
Accidental Mysteries, a weekly cabinet of visual curiosities curated by John Foster, highlights images of design, art, architecture and ephemera brought to light by the magic of the digital age. This week's focus is vintage clothing labels.


Alexandra Lange
A Stitch in Time
Sewing for your daughter, circa 1965.



Laura Weiss
What We Can Learn from Project Runway
As 'Project Runway' launches its 9th season, a designer muses on what she's learned.



William Underhill
Comradettes
New women's fashion collection celebrating history of labor


Rob Walker
Dedigitization
“Digital goods” are increasingly seen as having real value. Increasingly, though, things from the digital world are crossing over into physical manifestations that can be bought and sold.



An Xiao Mina
The Ultra 10 Challenge
Report on ULTRA, a sustainable fashion company founded in Kuala Lumpur.


Alexandra Lange
Onesies and Crime
Ruffles, butterflies and bows: this is how we ornament our girl babies.



Julie Lasky
Design Indaba 2011
Review of Design Indaba 2011 conference in Cape Town, South Africa


Alexandra Lange
Bring Back Braids
The True Grit of hairstyles: braids.


Alexandra Lange
From the Cabat to the City
Is Bottega Veneta's Tomas Maier an industrial designer trapped in the fashion world?


Chappell Ellison
How Do I Know It’s Faux?
If you want to go faux, you might have to call in a fur expert.


Alexandra Lange
My Marimekko Uniform
Wearing Marimekko is like being a walking work of art.



Dana Thomas
132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE
The latest material (and sustainability) adventure from the great Japanese fashion designer.



Jessica Helfand
The Real Skinny on the Real Skinny
The is the first of two essays on the visual nature of body image.



Johanna Blakley
The Costs of Ownership: Why Copyright Protection Will Hurt the Fashion Industry
New copyright protection for fashion designs is only going to hurt an already struggling industry.






Mark Lamster
Dandies at the Ballpark
What, you ask, did the well-dressed gentleman wear to the ballpark in 1870? The sartorially inclined team outfitter might have turned to the lovely "New York Fashions" lithograph above for inspiration.



Jessica Helfand
Better Living Through Artistry
SEWA, a cooperative textile manufacturing company in Ahmedebad, India, is a network of self-employed women.



Alexandra Lange
The Extinction of the Unisex
Now I have a toddler of my own, I'm wishing that children's clothes were more simple, without all the trimming.



Ernest Beck
The Cotton Club
Report on the complex, and sometimes muddled, standards for certifying organic cotton.



Eve M. Kahn
Green Sleeves
Review of “Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion” at Pratt Manhattan Gallery, November 20, 2009 - February 20, 2010.



Owen Edwards
Busted by Colombo, or, the Impediments of Style
The restrained high style of the ad men in Mad Men has revived a painful memory of one of my life-changing moments.



Jane Margolies
Skin
Report on maternity clothes made in Colombia with local labor. (No seamstresses under the age of 50 need apply.)



Ernest Beck
PACT Underwear
Report on PACT, an underwear company that embraces green manufacturing and donates a portion of its revenue to nonprofits.



Mark Lamster
Michael Jackson, Automotive Designer
I know, Michael Jackson has done some terrible things. Tax evasion. Absconding with the Beatles catalog. Child molestation. We Are the World. But this — is design even the word for it?



Rob Walker
Subconscious Warm-Up
The Speedo LZR Racer suits worn by
Michael Phelps and other world-class swimmers. Promoted as a design breakthrough and worn by the most victorious Olympian in history, it offers a potent blend of functional promise and emotional aspiration.



Observed | February 16

The first energy-positive Arctic hotel. [MPL]

Do concrete monsters deserve to be rescued? Saving Brutalism. [MPL]

AIGA Eye on Design‘s first magazine is now available for pre-order, and while the theme for issue 01 may be “Invisible,” it’s no wallflower. [LS]


Observed | February 15

Valentines Day may be behind us, but embracing the V is a daily constant. Enter Racket + #KnowTheFlow. [BV]

Visualizing musical scores: Theresa Sauer‘s stunning Notations21. [BV]

Fuzzy dudes. That‘s all. [MPL]


Observed | February 14

Ellsworth Kelly’s chapel at the University of Texas at Austin. [JH]

Long live graffiti. And the importance of exhibitions. [JH]


Observed | February 13

Poland. NATO. Design. Go! [JH]

Designing the perfect cafe. [JH]

How do you build a healthy city? [JH]


Observed | February 12

A new design residency is announced, courtesy of our friends at Core77. [JH]

A new logo for Lufthansa. [JH]

Busting the myths of logo design! [JH]


Observed | February 09

Ethics, truth, addiction—and design. [JH]

“These magazines were portals to other lives, systems of taste I learned by acquiring the small talismans and minute gestures that held these worlds up.” Hua Hsu remembers The Face and the magic of print. [MB]

It’s hard to be inspired on Friday. Adobe wants to make it a little easier: download free icon kits made by legendary designers here. [BV]


Observed | February 08

“American society has so normalized our inferior sidewalk system that we don’t believe we deserve a place to walk.” [BV]

Are madness and creativity linked? Is the art of the mentally ill freer in expression? [BV]


Observed | February 07

If birds left tracks in the sky, what would they look like? [BV]


Observed | February 06

How oceanliners shaped modern design. [MPL]

Supersmart algorithms won’t take all the jobs, but it’s not to be ignored: The Wired guide to artificial intelligence. [BV]


Observed | February 05

The insect that painted Europe red. [MPL]

The silent rise of the female-driven economy. [BV]


Observed | February 02

Has it been a long week? Are you exhausted by what’s on your screen? Erase the internet. [BV]

Machine learning and lack of learning in the tale of Google Translate. [BV]


Observed | February 01

How Muslim women use fashion to exert political influence: The rebellious potential of an apparently conservative style. [BV]

How planes fly (admit it — you always wanted to know). [BV]


Observed | January 30

A 3,000-year-old pharaoh statue is moved to a new home. It’s not the first time we‘ve noted the moving of a monument. [MPL]

To the distress of many, designs for the Resistance are being co-opted from their altruistic intentions into corporate moneymakers. [LS]



Jobs | February 17