July 9, 2009
On the Street in Tokyo
The major internal conflict I experienced on my recent trip to Japan was whether to explore the old-world — Zendos, philosopher’s paths, Kabuki, tatami mats, visits to ancient spaces; or the new one — anime, arcades, bars that serve liquor while also selling puppies, artfully-packaged convenience, an industry of fluorescent fun. These two Japans run parallel to each other, seducing and dividing Western tourists. Ultimately, I chose to dive into the Harajuku mayhem that Gwen Stefani has only scratched the surface of, and made my home base 109 — a teencentric mega-store in Tokyo’s Shibuya district.Â
When I asked a Japanese novelist about the T-shirts she laughed at my desire to take them seriously. “Some of us butcher your language. But Americans are no better.” To her, the T’s occupy a role not unlike the inexplicable Asian characters tattooed on the lower backs of blonde teens on spring break in Cabo. (According to legend, Britney Spears thinks her tattoo means “Mystery” when, in fact, it says “Strange.”)
eyes to a whole universe of off-kilter translations, leading to a finer appreciation for things like the charmingly-titled gourmet grocery store Cheese On The Table and the
nearby watering hole, The Bar of Corn Barley. But it was the T-shirts that stole my heart, and I found myself perpetually on the lookout for the most extreme, loopy examples. On Harajuku Street I spied one that said YOU MISSED TRUE LOVE, but this didn’t seem like something a supportive friend should buy for someone they claim to care about. Instead, I nabbed a few for my girlfriends with sayings like HUG IT WITH PEOPLE ALL OVER THE WORLD and I LOVE MILK OF CANDY BABY. For my sister, I found a soft pink hoodie with seafoam bubble letters: IT WAS LIKE A WORLD DREAM.
Observed
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Observed
By Lena Dunham
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